Kareena Kapoor skipped the usual red-carpet armour of structured gowns and sharp separates for the Daayra music launch in Mumbai. Instead, she showed up in a six-yard drape, a pastel rainbow leheriya saree in yellow, turquoise, seafoam and blush, done in a soft chiffon that let the fabric do most of the talking.

The saree came from The Palace Atelier. There was no heavy embroidery, no elaborate blouse, nothing fighting for attention. Kareena kept the drape simple and let the sheer colour blocking carry the look, pairing it with just a double-layered diamond choker and matching studs. Hair loose in waves, makeup kept to glowing skin and a nude-pink lip. Understated, by her standards.

But the saree wasn't the whole story. A day later, on September 11, Kareena posted a collage on her Instagram Stories setting her new leheriya moment against an old one, sister Karisma Kapoor in a similar drape from Zubeidaa, the 2001 film. She added the track "Main Albeli" to the Story and wrote, "Well, I always knew we have good taste… sisters forever @therealkarismakapoor."

That's the bit that got people talking. Fashion commentary account Diet Sabya jumped on the thread and put together its own timeline of Bollywood women in leheriya over the years, running from Rekha and Karisma through Rani Mukerji, Alia Bhatt and Shilpa Shetty, with Kareena's new look slotted in at the end.

Comments underneath ranged from admiring to pointed. One Instagram user wrote, "Girlies in Rajasthan are doing it every day with so much grace," a reminder that leheriya isn't a Bollywood invention dusted off for a red carpet. It's a tie-dye technique tied to Jaipur and Jodhpur for generations, the name itself coming from lehar, Hindi for wave, describing the diagonal stripe pattern the dyeing produces. Others were less reverent, someone compared the whole colour scheme to Casatta, the rainbow ice cream, which is fair.

The Daayra launch itself pulled a mixed crowd of names, but it's the saree and the sisterly callback that's carried the conversation past the event itself. Karisma hasn't publicly responded to the post yet.

Whether this actually tips festive wardrobes back toward pastel leheriya over the usual red and maroon is the real test, and that plays out over the next few weeks as the season's dressing kicks in properly.